Costa Rica: An expert's view

Monteverde Cloud Forest

Leaving the Central Valley behind, I travelled north west towards Monteverde, where the scenery gradually shifted. Roads became steeper and narrower, the air cooled slightly and the forest closed in. Monteverde’s cloud forest felt immediately different from elsewhere in the country, shaped by mist, moisture and a slower rhythm.

I stayed close to the forest reserve, which made independent exploration easy. The trails were well marked and straightforward to follow, allowing me to walk at my own pace and spend time simply observing. Mist drifted through the canopy as light rain came and went, and when the cloud lifted briefly, the forest seemed to change character again.

Wildlife here was subtle rather than dramatic. Instead of headline sightings, it was the smaller details that stood out – unusual plant life, insects, and birds that only appeared if you slowed down. One of the highlights was spending time at a hummingbird garden, where dozens of birds gathered just feet away. Sitting quietly with a coffee while watching them dart between feeders was a memorable and surprisingly calming experience.

I also explored the hanging bridges and treetop walkways in the area. Being able to move through the forest at canopy level offered a different perspective, revealing layers of vegetation and birdlife that are easy to miss from the ground.

Tortuguero

I then embarked on a journey eastward to Tortuguero, the renowned 'Land of the Turtles.' Eager to encounter these iconic creatures, I ventured to the beach after sunset to witness their nightly ritual. With hushed anticipation, I observed three massive sea turtles emerge from the waves, carefully digging their nests and laying hundreds of eggs.

My accommodations at the Tortuga Lodge & Gardens provided a tranquil retreat within the forest along a picturesque river. The lodge's serene ambiance and proximity to the main park, accessible by a boat ride, made it the ideal base for exploring the region. I spent my days kayaking through the lush waterways, encountering a diverse array of wildlife, from playful monkeys to slow-moving sloths and vibrant toucans. Beyond the natural wonders, Tortuguero village offered a charming glimpse into local culture, with its vibrant craft stalls and inviting tourist bars.

Arenal National Park

My next stop, Arenal, took me back to the heart of Costa Rica. This quaint town is overshadowed by the volcano which shares its name, last erupting in 1968, decimating the nearby village of Tabacon. Fortunately, it's been dormant ever since, creating a tranquil atmosphere, especially in the geothermal mineral spa-hotels. I recommend a stay at the Amor Arenal, where the small jungle cabins (called casitas) are designed to provide a luxurious and comfortable stay, with private plunge pools and spacious terraces. There are adventures aplenty here, I highly recommend exploring the rainforest, trying ziplining and going whitewater rafting.

Manuel Antonio National Park

After leaving Arenal, I headed to the Pacific Coast to the vast Manuel Antonio National Park. Our recommended accommodation – Arenas del Mar – is nestled in the forest with breathtaking ocean views, surrounded by miles of secluded rainforest. It's a boutique beachfront property that has the perfect blend of tranquility and accessibility. Nearby, Manuel Antonio National Park delighted me with its abundant wildlife. Within hours, I'd encountered red land crabs, sloths, and even a mother sloth gracefully climbing a tree with her young. A highlight of my trip was a catamaran excursion that brought me face-to-face with three majestic humpback whales.

Puerto Viejo

After looping back through San José, I made my way to my final destination: Puerto Viejo, perched on Costa Rica’s laid-back Caribbean coast near the Panama border. It felt wonderfully untouched, with a raw charm that made it the perfect place to wind down the journey. I spent my days cycling leisurely along the shoreline, pausing whenever the mood struck for a refreshing swim or a chilled drink at one of the colourful roadside cafés and bars.

The soundtrack to my rides was unforgettable – howler monkeys calling from the treetops as I passed beneath them. And just when I thought I couldn’t fall any harder for the place, I spotted more sloths lazily draped among the coastal trees, an unexpected but welcome highlight.

There’s no shortage of adventures here – kayaking, deep-sea fishing and horseback riding are all on offer – but for me, the most memorable experience was visiting the Jaguar Rescue Centre. While there were no big cat sightings this time, the resident sloths more than stole the show. Watching a basketful of their impossibly soft babies snuggle together was truly special, made even more meaningful knowing they’re cared for with the goal of returning them to the wild where they belong.