Regarded as one of Portugal’s most beautiful villages, Óbidos is a hilltop hamlet around an hour north of Lisbon, its walled old town blissfully free from cars. Pousada Castelo Óbidos is perched high in the northwest corner of the ramparts, having watched over the town for centuries. Step outside for exclusive access to part of the walls and the Dom Fernando Tower, and the chance to walk the rest of the ramparts after the day-trippers have left. Alternatively, wander down through the maze of cobbled streets to cafes, wine bars, boutiques and bookshops in this UNESCO City of Literature.
The pousada has just 17 rooms: 11 in the original castle and a further eight in the neighbouring cottage-style wing, Casa do Castelo. Brighter and more modern, the cottage rooms still have plenty of heritage charm, with balconies or terraces in the superior rooms and suite. But if you really want to soak up the medieval atmosphere, opt for a castle room, reached along stone corridors hung with tapestries, oil paintings and the occasional suit of armour. Here, thick walls, low doorways and wonky floors remind you that you’re sleeping in the real thing. For the full fairytale, book one of three suites tucked high in the towers with steep stairs, lofty views and the most magical vantage point of all.
With its romantic ambiance and far-reaching views, the pousada restaurant serves a generous buffet breakfast, complete with classic Portuguese pastries. At lunch and dinner, chef Cláudia Santiago adds a contemporary twist to traditional dishes, including desserts laced with the town’s signature ginja liqueur. Between times, curl up with a book in one of the castle lounges, or enjoy a glass of wine in the gardens or on the evocatively named stone terrace, Porta da Traição – the Gate of Betrayal. Friendly staff are on hand to help with practicalities from restaurant tips to whisking your luggage up and down the hill by golf cart.