Amanwana is a tented camp, far from anywhere and far from the boy-scout variety. There are just 20 suites in total, some stretching along the shoreline, the rest set amidst tropical rainforest. Whichever option you choose to hang your hat in, you’re onto a winner. The tents, on raised platforms, with hardwood floors and walls, wide windows and soaring pitched canvas ceilings, are elegant and exquisitely thought-out. The huge beds, swathed in netting, are the epitome of safari chic, the en suite bathrooms with twin vanities are spacious, as is the living area, bedecked with island artwork, sprawling sofas and a writing desk, perfect for the poetic postcard writing these island surroundings inspire.
From the former, you’re more likely to see the delicate Rusa deer that sometimes tiptoe past, shyly inquisitive, or the macaques, straightforwardly curious. The seafront decks are perfect for the speediest straight into the sea sprints; and for spending hours watching the endless stretch of its many hues, crystal clear at the shore, shading into pale green and turquoise into almost purple in the distance. Swimming or snorkelling through these zones is a fabulous experience, from warm shallow waters to a sudden cool as the reef falls away into the darkening deep of an underwater universe.
Diving in these waters is magnificent – this is a marine reserve, and Amanwana’s dive centre will arrange it all and also offers guided night-time snorkelling. Kayaks and windsurfers are all set to go, as is the resort’s bespoke cruiser, ready to whisk guests to isolated bays and islands. You don’t need to go far to discover the sea’s treasures though – turtles can be spotted from the resort’s pontoon. A sprawling broadwalk, studded with several sun-loungers, provides an even more laidback way of enjoying it all, with a handy freshwater pool for cooling off in.
Jungle walks provide just as much enthralment, through beautiful foliage along sun-dappled tracks, spotting wild boar, deer, monkeys, and gorgeous birdlife before refreshing dips under waterfalls or in natural pools. For in-between moments, the spa by the beach, surrounded by stone walls, offers outdoor massages under shady trees and Indonesian treatments in a Spa Tent.
Lastly, the restaurant is exceptional. Bamboo-roofed but otherwise open to the views all around, it’s relaxed but special, with delicious dishes that span Indonesian to international, all based on fine ingredients. The ultimate sashimi treat comes from catching your own tuna, handing it over to the chef and eating it within seconds of landing, with sparky dipping sauces. Simple, sensational, enjoyed within the sound of the sea.