A treat to stay in at any time of year, Grumeti Tented Camp really comes into its own during the wildebeest migration months between May and July, as the hordes and herds have to make their way across the Grumeti River en route. The tents and main buildings line the river, as do massive crocodiles and a forest that is the only place in Tanzania where the rare black and white colobus monkey can be seen.
Though seemingly rustic, Grumeti is anything but. Cool and shaded reception rooms and the 10 tents are accented with flamboyant African fabrics and bright beadwork, funky under the woven banana-leaf roofs. Huge beds are draped in vibrant covers, ceiling fans add to the river breeze, and outdoor showers on each tent deck add to the romance. Dining is always a delight here – with lunch beside the river, afternoon tea served under a tree and bush suppers, served with campfires ablaze alongside and huge stars ablaze above.
Twice daily game drives in open-sided 4WDs add to the drama. Expect elephants, hyenas, lions and cheetahs, and a sun-downer or two, served somewhere scenic on the savannah. Back at base, the game viewing carries on, from wide decks or even from the sweet swimming pool, sited to overlook a hippo pool where these hefty beasts congregate and frolic. What looks like an extension to the wide sloping lawn is really a raft of water cabbage, through which crocodiles come up for air from time to time.