By Matthew Grubb Europe Specialist

Discovering one of Italy’s most underrated regions

Despite travelling extensively across Italy over the years – from the lakes of the north to the sun‑baked landscapes of the south – Liguria had somehow remained a gap in my personal map. I’d long heard whispers of its rugged coastline, beautifully blue waters and its string of colourful fishing villages, but nothing quite prepared me for finally experiencing it myself. This journey became not only an introduction to a new region, but a reminder of how endlessly surprising Italy can be, even to someone who has spent plenty of time exploring it.

Porto Venere

An easy transfer from Pisa Airport brought me to Porto Venere, a place that immediately felt like the right choice for my first few nights. The Grand Hotel Porto Venere sits proudly above the small harbour, just steps from the ferry terminal and the lively promenade lined with multi‑coloured buildings. Most of its rooms have this delightful view, as does the panoramic terrace on which breakfast and bar drinks can be enjoyed.

Just opposite, the imposing Palmaria is also within this view. A guided morning hike on the island, a protected national park, was a brilliant introduction to the local area. The hike offered fantastic views of Porto Venere and the coastline beyond in one direction, and a glimpse of various headlands and Tuscany’s mountains in the opposite direction.

A private boat trip with lunch organised through the hotel was highly deserved indulgence after this hike. There is no better, nor a more luxurious way, to fully appreciate the magnificent blue waters and the eye catching coastline that makes the area so special.

The rest of the time here, and indeed the main reason to use Porto Venere as a base, was spent exploring perhaps the region’s highlight: the Cinque Terre. These are five small rustic coastal villages situated among a stretch of steep cliffs, often with contrasting characters and layout.

View from Grand Hotel Porto Venere

View from Grand Hotel Porto Venere

Porto Venere

Porto Venere

Coastline of Porto Venere

Coastline of Porto Venere

Vernazza, Corniglia & Manarola

A ferry to Vernazza brings you straight into one of the most beautiful harbours imaginable. Wooden boats occupy the calm water, while colourful buildings and a traditional bell tower are overlooked by imposing hills behind. The harbour and its bustling side streets offer high levels of beauty while retaining a genuinely authentic and rustic feel.

From Vernazza, the 90–120-minute hike to Corniglia was certainly worthwhile for views of the dramatic coastal landscape and of the respective towns at the start and end. Perched on top of a cliff, Corniglia is smaller and less well known but is a perfect spot for a well-deserved lunch after the walk due to its small, pleasant piazzas and narrow cobbled streets. A short train from here to Manarola and a subsequent hike up the hill above provided more memorable views, and a stop in Riomaggiore on the ferry back captured a perfect day on the Cinque Terre. Monterosso, the furthest village along the coast away from Porto Venere, presents the best chance to try wine tasting, and a scenic ferry there is the best way of appreciating its surroundings.

Views of Vernazza

Views of Vernazza

Corniglia

Corniglia

Views of Manarola

Views of Manarola

Santa Margherita Ligure & Portofino

After my time in the Cinque Terre, I travelled an hour west by train from nearby La Spezia, along the coast to Santa Margherita Ligure. Situated in the heart of Liguria, this was a beautiful seaside resort town, characterised by a large harbour and details fresco facades on many of its buildings. It is also a perfect base to visit famous Portofino, but staying in a larger town that avoids huge volumes of day visitors, unlike its neighbour. The 50-minute coastal walk back from Portofino was another enjoyable experience in scenic surroundings.

The Grand Hotel Miramare was a wonderful place to best appreciate the destination in style. Now 120 years old, the grand hotel has had large scale renovations to become a genuine 5* deluxe property, blending tradition with comfort and luxury. The upgrade to a room with balcony allowed the chance to sit and admire the views of the harbour and coastline beyond for hours on end. This relaxation after the hiking of the previous days highlighted how Liguria really does have something for everyone.

Grand Hotel Miramare

Grand Hotel Miramare

Santa Margherita Ligure

Santa Margherita Ligure

Santa Margherita Ligure

Santa Margherita Ligure

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